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Spirits & Cocktails in the News
Recent Spirits & Mixology Books ****Top Shelf ***VSOP **VS *Bottom Shelf
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July 02 Karlsson’s Gold Vodka ReviewVodkas are notoriously difficult to review, mainly because the idea behind a great vodka is to make it as close to the ideal of no color, no odor, no flavor. However, having said that, every vodka has minute differences that come from the source product and the water used to dilute it to proof. Karlsson’s Gold is distilled from seven types of virgin or “new” potatoes and Swedish water. Rather than distilling countless times to achieve a blank palette vodka, Karlsson’s Gold is only distilled once. This gives it terroir and intriguing nuances of the potato character. Not only that, but every year produces it’s own flavor profile based on how the potatoes were affected by soil and weather conditions. This produces the world’s first vintage vodka. The vintage bottle I received for review was excellent. Other than Stolichnaya, Hanger One and a few other boutique vodkas I’ve tried, Karlsson’s Gold is arguably the best. Depending on the serving temperature, different flavors come to the fore. Served at room temperature, it is sweet and light. Similar to a high end grappa. Served ice cold, it is like drinking a thick and rich nectar of icy rain drops. This vodka is great for sipping straight or used in classics like a Kangaroo or Bloody Mary. For more information on Karlsson’s click here. Good Spirits Rating: **** (Top Shelf) July 01 Grand Marnier BAR Scholarship Grand Marnier is looking to hire 6 US mixologists as consultants to
participate in the Manhattan Cocktail Classic event October 2 to
October 4, 2009. As compensation, Grand Marnier will be proud to offer
each consultant a scholarship of $2,500 to attend the BAR session from
September 28 to October 2, 2009. This initiative announced by Steve Olson at the 2009 Grand Marnier Mixology Summit features Grand Marnier’s efforts to continue to support US mixologists. The Grand Marnier scholarship is now open for the Sept 28 – Oct 2 BAR session to eligible US resident mixologists for the 2 following categories:
All applications should be received by July 20, 2009 at GrandMarnierScholarship@gmail.com. Selected applicants will be notified by August 11, 2009. Download an application here June 30 GSN NYC BAR Review: June 12-14, 2009I had the opportunity to go to New York City a few weeks ago, and took the opportunity to check out a variety of cocktail lounges and bars. As I was staying at the Hudson Hotel in Manhattan, I made Private Park, their unique second floor open air cocktail pavilion my first stop. After a six hour drive to the city, I was in desperate need of a thirst quencher. Upon asking for a cocktail menu, I recognized John Lermayer’s name as the creator of a drink on the list; but decided upon a muddled blackberry and bourbon concoction to start things off. $14 was rather steep for a drink that disappeared much too quickly, so I opted to find another location for dinner and more drinks. I took the subway into Greenwich Village and walked around taking in the atmosphere. The weather was perfect, so I decided on a Mexican Tapas restaurant called Mercadito Grove with outdoor café style seating. Most of their house drinks called for tequila, so I ordered two with dinner that sounded interesting. The Mercado was a blend of blanco tequila, pineapple and lime juice, and chile pequin. The Siempre es Pera consisted of jimador blanco, pear, lime and spiced salt. Both were quite tasty, and went very well with the excellent food. Saturday afternoon was spent exploring Brooklyn, with a stop at Montague Wine & Spirits where I picked up some hard to find Amaros and a bottle of Maraska liqueur. The staff was helpful and the store had a great selection. Later, I stopped at the Clover Club for an appetizer and a trio of cocktails: A Lima Sour, a Bermuda Rum Swizzle and a Corpse Reviver #2 for good measure. I spent some time talking with Chris Stanley who was behind the stick at the time. I was highly impressed with not only his knowledge, but that he was a reader of Good Spirits News! Word gets around apparently. Later that evening, I decided to check out Sasha Petraske’s latest venture called Dutch Kills. If you go, be sure to bring cash as they do not accept credit cards. The façade of the club was certainly unimposing as it was marked with a single glowing red neon sign that simply said “BAR”. Upon walking inside, I was greeted by the host who was dressed in clothing appropriate to the Prohibition era. I opted to sit at a booth, as it was uncomfortably hot at the bar. The cocktail menu was slight with only a few select offerings. Nonetheless, they were certainly impressive and affordable. A tequila based creation had one huge hand carved chunk of ice keeping it cool in a rocks glass. The other was served in a vintage style martini glass. Both were tasty and well executed in presentation. My criticisms of Dutch Kills are few, but in need of changing if I were to return. There was retro style 80’s music playing through tinny speakers, which totally killed the 1920’s atmosphere. As well, there was literally no décor. Very dark wood everywhere, with no period artwork or anything interesting to look at. Another nice touch would be something to read along the lines of the Clover Club’s informative menu. After a long day, I had hoped for some quiet respite and unfortunately did not find it here. Sunday, I had to head back home, but decided to make one more stop for drinks at the Hudson Hotel’s 15th floor Sky Terrace Lounge. The day was warm, so I tried a blackberry caipirinha and a port based Collins. With the tip, my wallet was $40 lighter; but spiritually fortified, I reluctantly descended the escalator and began the long drive home. As Arnold Schwarzenegger would say, “I’ll be back.” June 26 Cocktail of the Week: The WatsonThe Watson 1 oz vodka 1 oz orange juice 1.5 oz creme de cacao 0.5 oz heavy cream One sprig of mint Take mint leaves off sprig and muddle with heavy cream in bottom of mixing glass. Add vodka, orange juice and creme de cacao. Shake with ice and double strain into chilled martini glass. Dust lightly with unsweetened cocoa powder through strainer and garnish with orange twist and mint leaf over edge of glass. Cocktail created by Blair Frodelius, Good Spirits News June 22 A New Taste of Old MexicoThe latest trend in spirits seems to be flavored infusions. I’m sure we’ve all had fruity, spicy or dessert flavored vodkas; but there is an entirely new player in town. Tanteo Tequila uses 100% Weber Blue Agave for it’s blanco tequila and then infuses it with natural flavor extracts to create three versatile flavors for your sipping and mixing pleasure. First off, the most logical of these creations is the Tanteo Jalapeno. The vegetal quality of the tequila works extremely well with the mellow burn of the jalapeno. The nose is enticing and the finish is long lasting, giving off a warming pepper burn that makes this an exceptional sipping tequila. This would also work well in a Bloody Mary variation, or even a Jalapeño Tequila martini. Very nice, and something I happily recommend for tequila enthusiasts. Good Spirits Rating: A Next, I tried the Tanteo Chocolate. This is not a Godiva or Bailey’s type of liqueur. This is a dry, bittersweet type of spirit that has multiple layers of flavor. The nose is odd, but if you think of Baker’s chocolate, it makes sense. The finish is somewhat short and leaves your mouth feeling dry. I kept feeling it needed something edible to balance the experience. This would be fantastic as a sipping tequila with Mexican food, or even as an addition to a chocolate based mole sauce. It is an unusual tequila flavor on it’s own, but well worth a try to pairing with a meal. Good Spirits Rating: B+ Finally, Tanteo Tropical. Unfortunately, for me, this was the one tequila that sounded better on paper than it tasted. The fruit is entirely much too forward and conflicts with the natural flavor of the tequila. The nose is off putting and has an artificial air about it. Apparently the infusion is a mixture of mango, pineapple and guanabana. I think they might have done better to choose one fruit and make it simpler. About the best I could recommend this for is to mix into a Mango or Pineapple margarita. But as a sipping tequila, I’ll pass. Good Spirits Rating: C- Tanteo Tequilas are currently only available in New York, New Jersey and online. More information can be found on their website at www.tanteotequila.com June 20 Cointreau vs. Hiram Walker?A few weeks ago, I received an interesting package in the mail. A bottle of Cointreau and a bottle of Hiram Walker Triple Sec with a note to compare the two. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting much from the latter. I decided however to go one step further and throw in a few other orange based liqueurs into the mix. So, without further ado, here are my impressions of a variety of triple secs and curacaos. Cointreau: The granddaddy of them all. An elegant liqueur with an impeccable nose. This smells like delicious oranges and tastes even better. The slightly bitter quality is perfectly balanced by the sweetness. Very little burn and a wonderfully bright finish. This is totally deserving of the cult status it has among top mixologists. Good Spirits Rating: A+ Grand Marnier: This is a darker liqueur in character than any of the others I tried. A fantastic after dinner drink on the rocks, or even heated. It doesn’t mix as well as Cointreau, but that doesn’t preclude it from several great cocktails. The overall impression I have is of an aged version of curacao. It works great on its own, but also adds depth of character to a drink like a margarita. Rich, velvety and impeccably smooth. Good Spirits Rating: A Hiram Walker Triple Sec: First of all, I must point out that this is only 60 proof. Undoubtedly not only to save money, but to cover up the lack of distillation quality. The nose put me right off, smelling not really like fresh orange peel, so much as stale orange candy. Upon tasting, I was greeted with an oversweet orange-like syrup. Really, this could pass for orange simple syrup but for the fact that there is alcohol in there somewhere. This is flat, one dimensional and really only something a mixologist worth his shaker would use in a pinch. Good Spirits Rating: C Patron Citronge: This has been my “go to” mid-shelf triple sec for awhile now, but tasting it alongside of the others in my collection, I discovered that it really isn’t as close to Cointreau as I had originally thought. The nose is very similar, bringing a nice orangey brightness that gets the mouth watering. But, the taste is bitter to the point of reminding me of Campari in an odd way. Granted, this is about $15 less per bottle than Cointreau, but it is not an equal by any means. Still, it can be used in cocktails without embarrassment, and when blended with other spirits, it loosens up the unpleasant bitter quality. Good Spirits Rating: B Senior Curacao of
Curacao: On Ted Haigh’s recommendation, I sought out a bottle of this in
the clear version. The only curacao still
made on the island of Curacao and darned hard to find in the USA. This is an older style liqueur with a heavy
thickness that works well in turn of the century cocktails. There isn’t a lot that I can say to the
negative about this spirit. Very
orangey, balanced, sweeter than Cointreau and smooth. I like it!
Good Spirits Rating: A- June 18 Cocktail of the Week: Vote for Pedro 2 oz Tequila (repo or blanco depending on your taste or mood) 3/4 oz Pedro Ximenez Sherry 3/4 oz Apricot Liqueur (Apry is suitable here or you can splurge on Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot) 1 oz fresh squeezed Lime juice 2 dashes Pomegranate-Orange Bitters (you're gonna have to make this yourself as i do, or you can substitute regular orange bitters and a couple drops of pomegranate juice - approx. 1/8 tsp each) Mix, shake & strain into a chilled wine glass. Garnish w/ orange zest. Cocktail created by Alex Smith, Thirsty Bear, San Francisco June 06 Cocktail of the Week: Norwegian Wood
Stir ingredients with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail coupe. Garnish with a large twist of lemon peel and serve. Cocktail created by Jeffrey Morganthaler June 02 Cocktail of the Week: Real Dill Real Dill
Shake and strain into a cocktail glass.
Garnish with a sprig of dill and cucumber slices Cocktail created by Armando Rosario, Las Vegas May 24 BarSmarts Live! Update The BarSmarts LIVE schedule is set for Fall '09 -- San Francisco (October
13), Los Angeles (October 15), New York City (November 3), and Las
Vegas (December 9). If you, friends or colleagues are interested, send
an email requesting information to info@barsmarts.com. For those whose
city we haven't yet scheduled, thanks so much for the interest(!),
we'll have news in the next couple months about a new BarSmarts online
course. Cocktail Blogs & Websites
Resources for the Mixologist
Streaming Online Videos
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